Mammut

Smart HMS 2.0 Screwgate Carabiner

A decent a carabiner

It's a solid carabiner. The safety feature of the plastic gate not closing until the carabiner is locked could be useful in ensuring the gate is locked during use. However, I like to have by carabiners unlocked while on my harness so they are ready to be deployed quickly, and this just sits kind of awkward if it's open. That's my one nitpick.

A bit tricky to use

Familiarity:

I've used it several times

It has a clever protection against cross-loading and unscrewing, but it's not always easy to operate because the massive plastic lock gets in the way when opened - it's perpendicular to the carabiner. Also, the plastic lock can fall off (happened once). Unlike other Mammut carabiners or Edelrid, it doesn't have a red open indicator, no redundancy here. After trying both, I liked the Edelrid design more, but it may be a personal preference. For clipping into the rope on a glacier, it's reliable, especially as a safety measure for the inexperienced, supervised by a guide. Also great for rappelling with a tube device. For serious alpine climbing, I'm not sure if the extra protection outweighs added complexity and reduced versatility. For comparison, left to right: Mammut Sender, Classic, Workhorse, Smart HMS, Edelrid Bulletproof Screw FG, Edelrid Oval

The screw thread is quick and smooth to operate. I find the size of the carabiner to be unnecessarily large for my use.

Good ATC rappel carabiner

I wouldn’t use this for belaying with a grigri- an auto locker would work better and you don’t really need the round stock, the DMM ceros would be a better option for a GriGri. I would however use this with an ATC, especially for descending as it has a round stock.

Great size. Great for controlled environments. If needed in a hurry tho I'm not sure it would be my first choice...to many steps, but great for someone who wants that extra safety. Definitely nice to use to keep things organized

The best.

Best for rappelling, best for belaying, best for protection from crossloads. A mammut must-have.

It's a carabiner

The construction on this carabiner is on par with other major branded carabiners and the size/shape is also on par. The thing I enjoy most about it is that it has the retainer that keeps it oriented correctly. This can be a pain in the rear at times if you're clipping in and out repeatedly, but it's also a good reminder to screw your gate closed when clipping in as the retainer won't close or function until you're completely screwed closed on your gate. Overall it's a great carabiner and helps on many fronts when climbing. This is especially helpful at preventing cross-loading while belaying someone.

Great and durable carabiner to avoid cross loading while belaying